Cédric Lachat and Fabien Dugit embark on a "crazy" free climb.

On Wednesday, June 3, 2015, Cédric Lachat and Fabien Dugit made the first free ascent of "Ballade au Clair de Lune" (ED+, A3-A4) (A Walk in the Moonlight) on the south face of the Aiguille du Fou accompanied by photographer Thomas Viallettet. Since the first ascent by Jean Marc Boivin, Eric Bellin, and Martial Moïoli on August 18-19, 1983, the route had yet to be freed. Cédric and Fabien talk about their achievement, immortalized in photos by Thomas.

"Balade au Clair de Lune" is a legendary route that sees little traffic and has a reputation of being extremely committing.

Fabien, what sparked the idea to attempt to free climb it?

"For a while I had been looking for a route in the Mont-Blanc Range that met my criteria for a first free ascent:

• Establishing new free route or freeing an aid route on one of the legendary rock faces of the range.
• However, when it comes to putting up a new line, the faces are already littered and the pickings are slim! (I hate doing linkups or variations).
• An existing aid route seemed more fitting.

I quickly set my sights on "Balade…".

Fabien Dugit is a high-level climber, mountaineer, a member of Chamonix's world-renowned PGHM search and rescue team, and the project's driving force.

The Fou is a mini big wall, extremely steep and sustained from bottom to top.

The route starts from the lowest point on the face and climbs straight to the summit. 

• A crazy line!
• Put up by Boivin, a crazy climber!
• Hard A3/A4 aid climbing.
• The few climbers who have repeated the route we not sure that the line could go free.
• Very committing climbing, with few protection bolts and almost no bolted anchors…

All great reasons to take a look and see if it was possible to free the route.

The ethics of the endeavor were extremely important to me, especially when it came to respecting the first ascent. It was clear to us from the start that we would attempt to free the route without adding any bolts."

 

How did you manage scouting the route, logistics, shuttling gear, and preparing for the actual climbing?

"Eric Doiseau provided me with a detailed topo of his winter ascent. The crux appeared to be the A3/A4 slab on the 6^th pitch that takes only hooks for protection. For the rest, we were not quite sure what to expect. We saw a few photos on the web, but not much else.

In April, Cedric and I scouted the route and shuttled gear on skis.

We started from the Aiguille du Midi with huge packs (static ropes/pitons/cams/…). After a night in the Réquin hut, we embarked on the approach to the Fou, but snow conditions were horrible, and our packs way too heavy.

After breaking trail in knee-deep snow, and making trips back and forth in the approach couloir to shuttle gear, we were completely exhausted once we were finally standing at the base of the route. Without a portaledge and no place to bivy, we decided to ski back down to Chamonix that very day. Cédric was still super motivated to attempt the face, which he had never seen beforehand.

We scouted the route a second time in May

The same approach on skis, with packs just as heavy as the time before; more static ropes and a portaledge. This time, we hoped to check out the aid pitches from below to get a better idea of how hard or feasible a free attempt would be. We spent two days climbing, scaring ourselves on aid, identifying the crux sections, finding adequate placements to protect the route, fixing our static lines, etc. We left with the feeling that freeing the route was possible. Our motivation was stronger than ever!!!

On our third visit, we approached the base of the route on foot from the Envers hut.

Initially, we only wanted to send the crux pitches that had yet to climb on lead and replace the four bolts on the route that were unlikely to hold a fall. Due to a simple lack of time, we decided to take our chances and send the entire route free, in a day, without replacing the bolts. Our motto before leading each pitch was, "don't fall!", and it worked. After leaving the hut at 03:30 in the morning, we reached the summit around 20:30 without hitch."

In less than one week, you participated in two incredible adventures in the Mont-Blanc Range, one first ascent with Jeff Mercier, and this first free ascent.

Could you describe the physical and mental effort required? How were you able to manage both climbs, one after the other?

"You're absolutely right; it was a busy week for me, and not something that I deliberately planned!

I trained for the Fou by climbing a lot, to get back to the same level I was at a few years ago. Physically I was in good shape, having spent quite a bit of time in the mountains during the spring, so for both routes I was already well acclimatized. For the Aiguille du Plan's west face, Jeff had talked about it a while ago. The day prior to our adventure, he gave me a call to go do the route. I hesitated a bit, knowing that I had plans to climb the Fou just a few days later. He sold me on making an attempt, adding that we'd be back down in Chamonix the very same night. The next day we left home at three in the morning, spent twenty hours in the mountains venturing up the unknown, and finally opening the door to the Cosmiques hut at eleven that night. What a day! While climbing a major new route had not been in my plans, I wasn't too exhausted afterwards."
 
Jeff Mercier and Fabien Dugit put up a new route on the Aiguille du Plan

"Just a few days later there was a window of good weather to make our attempt on the Fou. So I went; it's as simple as that. I took each route one at a time, without overthinking it too much. It was just a question of opportunity and availability."

 

Cédric, could you describe the crux sections of the route, the type of climbing, the commitment, and the solutions you used to place protection? How would you rate the route?

Cédric Lachat is a crimper's worst enemy who devours hard multi-pitch routes for breakfast, as well as a fanatic when managing the ropes.

"The first six pitches on the route are the hardest to protect, especially pitch 2 (7b+ with a worthless piton), pitch 3 (6b+ with one piece of protection for 30 meters of climbing), and pitch 6 (8b). The challenge when trying to place protection is that the cracks are primarily thin closed-off seams. It is hard to place anything reliable. These pitches are usually protected with pitons.

The real challenge to send the route was the first attempt on each pitch.

It is a hard route to protect while climbing. You have two options: either turn your brain 100% off and risk killing yourself, but at least you don't have to fiddle around trying to place gear; or aid the route and then protect each pitch once the fixed ropes are in place. We both chose the second option. While Fab and I are very good climbers, and we know the basics when it comes to aid, this type of climbing really is an entirely different world. We are light years from the level required to rope gun hard aid. Long story short, we were able to get the rope up hard pitches like pitch 6, rated A3-A4, but only by consuming a healthy dose of adrenaline and time. In other words aid climbing is complicated. Once the ropes were up, we took the time to place solid protection to be able to climb in relative safety. When it came to setting up the fixed lines, organizing the rope, or placing bomber protection, I drew on my extensive caving experience to ensure that everything was safe and sound.

Fab and I would just tell each other, "don't fall", before each lead

Even with bomber protection, we still couldn't place much on each pitch. While we made sure that each pitch was protected, the route is still in the high mountains, so pieces were sometimes 10 to 20 meters apart, and more than a few flakes were just asking to be trundled. The mountains require a certain level of understanding and an ability to read the terrain. For that, I think that we both have plenty of experience."

 

How much time did you spend scouting the route and working each pitch before making an attempt to free the entire route? 

"We had initially planned to spend a good part of the year working the route, not knowing if it was even possible to free every pitch. After shuttling gear the first time, we scouted out the lower pitches. Keep in mind that climbing a pitch that has already been freed is much quicker and easier than venturing off into the unknown. So regardless of the route's rating, when leading each pitch for the first time, we stepped off the anchor loaded down with a full rack in order to be prepared for anything. This meant climbing with a hammer and pitons, and a ton of other gear. It was long and tiring…

We climbed to the top of pitch 6 on our first two days working the route.

On the descent, we protected the each pitch as best we could and fixed static lines for the next session. Due to bad weather, we couldn't stay any longer. During these first two days, I started to feel like everything was climbable and that the route wasn't quite as hard as I had initially imagined. The aid climbing was a challenge, and there wasn't any fixed protection on the A2 and A3-A4 pitches. Not one piton, not one anchor. I decided to wear my climbing shoes and rack the gear on my harness, mixing free and aid climbing. For me this method was quicker, but it wore out my arms due to all the weight. So that was during our first two days.

During the second visit, I wanted to ascend the fixed ropes to scout the rest of the route.

No luck, since the weather was unstable and we only had a short two-day window. The other major problem was that temperatures were starting to rise and not dipping below freezing at night. This meant greater risk when ascending the approach couloir. With no nighttime freeze, the couloir transforms into a giant funnel for rock fall. So in short, this was our last chance to work the route before next period of cooler weather in the fall (September-October). Due to such high temperatures, our two-day window turned into one day (!!!), since after our ascent on the first day, we needed to start at six in the morning before the day warmed up in order to avoid rock fall and evening thunderstorms.

 

At what point did you realize that the route would go free? On the day of your attempt, were there still any lingering doubts?

"On the day of the ascent, we left the Envers des Aiguilles hut at three-thirty in the morning for the three-hour approach. The couloir had not really frozen overnight, but rock fall had not yet started either. Once at the bottom of the face, still well within the time planned, I made the decision that we would climb the route; not just  just make an attempt, but climb the entire route without falling! I said to Fab, "this is for the send, don't fall." And Fab, like always, was as motivated as ever.

To send the difficult and dangerous pitches, our original plan was to top rope them first to make sure we were solid.

The reality of our situation was that we just didn't have the time, so we made the choice to simply climb and not fall.

When we reached the legendary A3-A4 pitch, rated 8b, I still took the time ascend the fixed line and preview the climbing, marking a few key holds here and there. Next, I started climbing for the send, without working the pitch beforehand. Honestly, a fall was simply not allowed: one, to avoid pulling any gear (there are two old aid bolts on the slab, and I would bet my left leg that both will pull if anyone ever falls on them, and yes I almost soiled myself), and two, we just didn't have the time for a second attempt. So I just went for it and sent, and Fab the machine seconded the pitch without falling.

For the upper part of the wall, we never ended up having the time to scout the route from below, and were unsure about our ability to free the higher pitches.

In the end the climbing wasn't too difficult, and the A2 section protected well with cams. The third to last pitch did prove challenging, and Fab placed a few pitons before sending it. This pitch is at least 7c+.

It was almost dark when I grabbed the sharp end to lead the second to last pitch, a wide crack that protects with size 4 and 5 cams.

Unfortunately I only had one of each for 40 meters of climbing, and to top it off we were both pretty tired. I did exactly as I had learned in Yosemite: I turned my brain completely off and walked both cams with me for the entire pitch. A fall here was not allowed. I finally reached the top of the never-ending 40-meter pitch. Fab climbed to the anchor and then on to the summit. It was around 20:30 at night. Now all we had to do was rappel the route without getting the rope stuck."

We already knew that you were a specialist in free climbing routes at major limestone crags.

How did you adjust, adapt and/or improve your climbing and your experience on high alpine terrain?

"I feel right at home on multi-pitch climbs, and by now I've started to accumulate quite a bit of experience. In addition, that fact that I'm a state-certified caving guide means that my rope handling and management skills are honed. In terms of the high-mountains, I have slowly become familiar with the alpine environment ever since my friend Fab started dragging me out more often. On this trip the only problem was my legs! I'm a horrible skier and can't carry as much as Fab, which meant that I wasted a lot of time. We make a great rope team, and Fab willingly carried a much heavier load. I compensated by managing the ropes and leading the most difficult moves and cruxes. We both have our strengths, which is great for this type of project. In addition, we are used to doing things together and have complete trust in one another. I have never claimed to be a mountaineer; I'm a rock climber! As for the high mountains, as the years go I hope to gain a bit more experience. I'm not looking to be a pro in this environment, I just want to gain the skills and experience necessary to be able to reach the base of the rock where the climbing starts. Mountaineering is for Fabien; everyone has their thing."

What now?

After a short break, do the two of you still want to pursue projects together that involve climbing extremely difficult multi-pitch routes?

Cédric:

"Fab and I have known each other since our early teens; we started competing against each other in the European Cup as 14-year olds. There's no reason now to stop pushing each other. The south face of the Fou was great, a really fun adventure. While the project was somewhat complex, it turned out much easier to complete than first anticipated.
I have a lot of projects planned with Fabien, and I'd like us to tackle much bigger and much harder objectives. All we need is to find the right opportunity and big wall. So we'll see. We still have a lifetime's worth of adventure left, and there's no shortage of projects."

Fabien : 

"For me, it's clear that I'd like to attempt other climbs with Cédric. We work well together, get along perfectly, and it clearly takes a lot for a piece of rock to shut Cédric down. So yeah, I'd like to put up difficult routes on big walls, it's just a matter of finding the right one..."

 

A question for Tom…

You were able to do the photo report (onsight!!!) the day of the send. Could you tell us about how it went on your side of the camera, the preparation needed, moving up and down the wall, the challenges encountered, any pleasant surprises, and how you felt during the action?

The photographer's point of view on the last pitch.

"Wow, what an adventure!

Even on my side of the camera, it was non-stop. Initially, I wasn't even supposed to go with them, but the original photographer committed to the adventure (Sam Bié) injured himself, and suddenly I was accepting the invitation to embark on the escapade two days before the project started. So in terms of preparation, I had to organize everything at the very last minute.
Luckily, being both a high-mountain guide and photographer meant that I knew what I was getting into and could pack efficiently. That said, my backpack was still really heavy!

The system for moving up and down the wall was pretty simple: Fab and Cérdic had fixed the first six pitches, which made my situation pretty easy...

Well almost, since I had to put together a not-so-efficient makeshift system for moving up and down the rope; not having the right equipment proved exhausting! The static ropes in place were pretty much right in line with the route, but the steep bulletproof granite on the Fou's south face sometimes made it hard for me to move as far to the side of the route as I would have preferred to take photos.

As you put it, I was "onsighting", and both climbers were moving pretty fast. I was allowed just as many mistakes as they were allowed falls…

There was absolutely no way we could redo a photo sequence, which put a lot of pressure on me!

One thing that really impressed me was the ease with which Fab and Cédric sent the route! They hardly quivered, and climbed with such incredible speed! They plan was to climb all the way to the summit if they succeeded in sending the crux pitch (P6, 8b) on their first try, which turned out to be the case. Since they were only familiar with the first six pitches of the route, they onsighted the rest, with me in tow. Starting from pitch seven, fixing a static line for photos was out of the question, we needed to reach the summit! The route follows a crack system, one of the most aesthetic sections of the face. The most frustrating moment as a photographer was not being able to photograph the last pitch from above, a pure offwidth with huge exposure at the start, unbelievable! Cedric finished the pitch completely drained. In spite of their speed, we did not set foot on the summit until around 20:30, having left the hut at 03:30 that morning. After just one rappel we had to continue our descent in the dark, finally reaching our portaledge at the top of P1 at midnight, thirsty and starving.
In the end, while there are probably many photos that I could have taken, I spent a really great time with this incredible rope team. We had a lot of fun. !!! 

The quick story behind the name: the first ascensionists finished their new route with the full moon shining bright, thus the name "Ballade au Clair de Lune" (A Walk in the Moonlight). Ironically this was also the case for the first free ascent. A coincidence? I think not!"

 

Links to other aid ascents of the route by Team Petzl members:

• Fred Dégoulet: "Du libre et de l'artif pour 2 fous de montagne (Free and aid climbing for two crazy climbers)"
• Mathieu Maynadier: Video of Ballade au Clair de Lune - South Face of the Aiguille Fou... And the 1st Wingsuit Launch